We flew back to Ecuador for the grand finale. We had originally planned to go the the Galapagos but after talking to many that had been there and comparing their experiences to our other previous travels and then considering the $400 per day cost, we decided on a jungle tour instead. We had put off the jungle until the end of our trip because of the drought in the Amazon basin. Unlike the highlands, they had not had rain for 30 days and the lagoon where the jungle lodge was located had dried up. When last in Ecuador, we were advised that within 2 weeks, the rains would return and fill it up. In fact, another two weeks without rain resulted in the lagoon drying to the point that we would need to make a 20 minute trek across it to the lodge (part of the "adventure" the tour operator informed us).
We took a 30 minute flight to Lago Agrio and then a 2 hour van ride to the bridge over the Cuyabeno river where we began our three hour river ride into the Cuyabeno Reserve in a 30 foot dugout canoe equipped with a 40 hp Yamaha.
It soon became apparent that due to the water shortage, navigation of the river had become questionable. It is normal for large trees to fall across the river but with the low water, every minute or two of the three hour trip, our driver had to lift and lower the engine to go over logs, branches and dead heads in the water.
Before each lift, he had to goose the motor to ensure we made it over the log in question. This usually worked but resulted in a wild ride as we bumped, tipped, and banged into the mud banks. Disneyland could learn some tricks from these guys.Once we arrived at the large dry lagoon, we were greeted by our English speaking guide, Lewis. Lewis was born in a small Indian village deeper in the jungle. He was extremely personable and had endless knowledge of the local flora and fauna. As we stood in the mud, he began to try and find us gum boots to wear across the mud flats. These were supposed to be included in the tour but it soon became clear that there was a shortage of boots at the lodge as the cook took off his boots and gave them to me (one size too small) and Lewis took off his and gave them to Jude (2 inches too long). Lewis continued his work with a family he was taking to find crocodiles (he walked into camp that night after dark; still with bare feet) and we followed behind the cook.
The 20 minute walk turned out to be an obstacle course with bamboo bridges, slippery planks and long
sections of mud up to our boot tops. At one point, the combination of sucking mud and boots 3 sizes too large caused Jude to land on her ass in the muck. The cook seemed surprised when she started laughing and promptly got up and carried on. We had to do that muck trip about 8 times during our stay but since they never could find boots for Jude, 
they gave her a special dispensation and she only had to put the boots on to cover the flats--the rest of the time she was allowed to wear her runners. A real bonus in the heat and humidity -- until Lewis mentioned that there were over 100 species of snakes, many of them poisonous, that we should watch for on our jungle walks.
It turned out we were the only guests in the lodge so we had the lodge to ourselves and Lewis as our personal guide. Over the next three days we went on jungle walks, Cayman spotting, and piranha fishing. 
We also took another 6 hour return trip down the river where we visited an Indian village and we learned how to make cassava bread from manioc root, were accosted by a mischievous pet monkey, and visited a shaman. 
We had been grounded in the river several times by the time we returned to the camp but our fearless guide and driver managed to free us each time. 
The beds and food were the best we had experienced in Ecuador and we fell into bed exhausted each night.
The last morning we went on an sunrise bird watching walk and then crossed the mud flats for the final time. We celebrated as we left our gum boots on the bank of the river and put on our thongs and climbed into the canoe for the trip home. Just us, the 18 year old driver, and a mystery woman (never did figure out who she was or why she was there). Within minutes it became apparent that the river level had fallen another foot and was near the critical level where it would be impossible to navigate the waters.
After much bumping and grinding, we eventually found ourselves firmly stuck on top of a huge log in the middle of the river. The driver got off and tried to push us off--no chance. Then we all got off onto the log and worked at getting the dugout back in the water. Then the driver got back in the boat and tried revving the motor. Then he got back on the log and promptly fell in the water. Fifteen minutes later, we were heading back up stream but after a couple of hours, it was clear the water level was lower and lower.
It was at this point I noticed that the engine only had about 60% of its propeller left. Big jagged parts were missing from all of the logs and rocks it had hit. The need for a balanced prop is clearly western propaganda proliferated by those that sell and repair props because I am sure the prop had been like that for months and the old Yamaha just kept on going.
Eventually, the inevitable happened and we ran aground on a gravel bar. Too shallow for the motor so the mystery lady picked up the long pole in the boat and started pushing. Within a minute it was clear we were going no where so I grabbed the pole and started pushing. Things deteriorated from there and soon we were all in the water pushing the canoe through the water. The other two in their long pants and gum boots and us in our shorts and bare feet--- think piranha, anaconda, crocodiles, poisonous snakes and ???? were on our minds? At times we were up to our waist before there was enough water for the motor to operate and we could climb back into the boat. This continued off and on for the next 2 hours (the return trip took 4 hours). Eventually we arrived back at the bridge with all our fingers and toes and soaking wet for the rest of the trip. We caught the van and then the plane back to Quito and a day later were on the plane to Texas.
As you can see from the photos, this pet of the Indian family we visited was the highlight of our Amazon tour. We saw nine species of wild monkey in the jungle but mostly we saw their ass ends as they disappeared through the jungle. It seems that though this area is a reserve, the indigenous folks still have hunting rights. This cute little guy was already quite a handful and no doubt is destined to become monkey stew in another year.
